Future Technology Blog: 2024

Wednesday, November 13, 2024

Goldfish in a new tank of pure water tips from Claude AI

Tell me how much activity goldfish have at night in temperatures around 15 degrees and whether they will play swimming against the current of a little water pump just like hotter temperature fish have the energy to do

... Here's what I can tell you:

At 15°C (59°F), goldfish are noticeably less active compared to their preferred temperature range of 20-23°C (68-74°F).
While they can survive at 15°C, their metabolism slows down significantly, which affects their overall activity level, especially at night.

At this temperature:

Nighttime activity is typically minimal
They're less likely to play or swim against currents
Their digestive system works more slowly
They generally stay in a more dormant state

While goldfish do enjoy swimming against gentle currents when in their optimal temperature range, at 15°C they usually won't have the energy or inclination to play with pump currents like warmer-water fish might. They'll more likely seek calmer areas of the tank to conserve energy.

If you're hoping to see more active behavior, consider gradually raising the temperature closer to 20°C. But any temperature changes should be made very slowly to avoid stressing the fish.

So in my region the water is extremely pure and has very low mineral content so I have used that and I have added 20 grams of salt into 50 liters of water and there are four tiny little goldfish which consume 30x less oxygen than the water naturally replenishes with and I'm wandering what the probable pH is and what things like can do to enhance the water I am going to add a bit of sand tomorrow and some plants and I'm wondering about the biochemistry of the water right now as it is very new and pure and what ideal pondy amendments to do

Let me help analyze your water chemistry situation. Let's break this down step by step:

Water with very low mineral content (very pure water) typically has a pH around 7.0 or slightly below, but can be unstable due to low buffering capacity (low KH/carbonate hardness).
Your salt addition:
- 20g in 50L = 0.4g/L or 400ppm salinity
- This is a reasonable level for goldfish, as they tolerate brackish conditions well
- The salt helps with osmotic regulation and stress reduction
Your current setup:
- Very pure water + salt
- No substrate yet
- No plants yet
- Low bioload (4 small goldfish)
- Good oxygen levels (your calculation about 30x headroom is reassuring)

For optimal water chemistry, I'd suggest these amendments in order of priority:

First priority - Add carbonate buffering:
- Crushed coral or limestone in a mesh bag
- Or a commercial KH buffer. This will stabilize your pH and provide necessary minerals.
Substrate:
- When adding sand tomorrow, consider mixing in some small amount of clay-based substrate or aquasoil.
- This will help establish beneficial bacteria and provide minerals for plants.
Plant nutrients:
- Since your water is very pure, add a comprehensive aquarium plant fertilizer.
- Start with 1/4 to 1/2 the recommended dose since your bioload is low.
Beneficial bacteria:
- Add a quality aquarium bacteria starter.
- This is especially important in new setups with pure water.

Monitor parameters for the first few weeks. The initial pH isn't as important as having it remain stable. I'd suggest getting:

A KH test kit (carbonate hardness)
A GH test kit (general hardness)
A pH test kit

Would you like more specific details about any of these aspects?

So what will the Coral do to the PH and what about the complexity of the Coral chemistry if I have fossilized coral and what about just crashed seashells and what will it do to the water which is so good and how long will it take and can it possibly make any complex swings that I do not want and what quantity

Let me break down coral and shell chemistry in aquarium water:

Coral/shells are primarily calcium carbonate (CaCO₃), which dissolves gradually to:
- Raise pH by releasing carbonate (CO₃^2-)
- Increase calcium hardness (GH)
- Increase carbonate hardness (KH) - this is your buffer

For your setup:

Crushed seashells work similarly to coral
Fossilized coral may dissolve more slowly due to mineralization
For 50L, start with about 1/2 cup (120mL) of crushed material

The chemistry process:

CaCO₃ + H₂O + CO₂ ⇌ Ca²⁺ + 2HCO₃^-

Timeline and safety:

Changes occur over 24-72 hours
Very unlikely to cause dangerous swings in your pure water
The reaction is self-limiting - it slows as pH rises
Target pH will be around 7.4-7.8

Key safety points:

Don't use too much - easier to add more later
Rinse material first to remove dust
The higher surface area (more finely crushed), the faster it works
Monitor pH daily for first week

Your pure water with low minerals actually makes this safer - there's less chance of unexpected interactions. The primary risk would be adding too much too fast, so start conservatively.

Would you like me to explain more about monitoring methods or specific signs to watch for in your fish?

What is the recommended mass and surface area for a nice slow and balanced reaction in 50 litres of nearly pure water considering I am going to crush seashells into the size of sand or use plain seashells which have the size of coins of which I have a kilo

For 50 litres of very pure water, let's analyze both approaches:

For sand-sized crushed shells:
- Start with 50-75g (about 1/3 cup)
- Higher surface area means faster reaction
- This amount allows you to monitor and add more if needed
- Crush to roughly 1-2mm particles (like coarse sand)
For coin-sized whole shells:
- Start with 100-150g (3-4 medium shells)
- Much slower reaction due to less surface area
- More predictable and gradual change
- Easier to remove if needed

The tradeoff:

Sand-sized: More control but requires closer monitoring during the first 48 hours
Whole shells: More forgiving, very gradual change over weeks

My recommendation:

If using crushed:
- Start with just 50g
- Test pH after 24 hours
- Add another 25g if pH is still low
- Keep remaining crushed shell as backup
If using whole shells:
- Start with 3 medium shells (roughly 100g)
- Can add more after a week if needed
- Position them where water flows over them

Warning signs to watch for:

pH climbing above 7.8
Fish gasping at the surface
Fish acting stressed

Would you like me to explain more about placement in the tank or testing frequency?

I put a piece of volcanic basalt in there and I'm not sure if it will have a bad effect on the pH it is some kind of grey volcanic extrusion with tiny air bubbles and it from a strato volcano in the middle of France and I have put in one kilogram rock

Let me analyze the volcanic basalt situation:

Basalt chemistry in aquariums:

Generally inert and safe for the most part
Can release small amounts of minerals but very slowly
Typically won't affect pH significantly
May contain trace elements like iron, magnesium, calcium
The bubbles (vesicles) increase surface area for beneficial bacteria

For a 1kg piece in 50L:

Benefits:
- Provides good surface for beneficial bacteria
- Adds visual interest
- May provide trace minerals slowly
- Won't decompose or break down
Potential concerns:
- French volcanic regions (Auvergne?) typically produce alkaline basalts
- But the leaching rate is extremely slow
- Main risk would be if there are any metallic sulfides present (rare)

Testing suggestion:

Monitor pH daily for a week
Watch for any metallic sheen on the water surface
Observe fish behavior near the rock

The risk is quite low - basalt is widely used in aquariums. The only caution would be if you notice:

Sudden pH changes
Fish avoiding the rock
Any unusual odors

Would you like me to explain more about beneficial bacterial colonization on the basalt or what specific parameters to monitor?

Its from the summit of Puy Mary

Ah, Puy Mary in the Monts du Cantal - that's helpful context! This basalt would be from the Cantal volcanic complex, which is typically:

Composition:

Alkaline basalt/trachyandesite
Rich in silica and aluminum
Generally contains:
- Plagioclase
- Pyroxene
- Some olivine
Low in sulfides
Very stable mineral structure

For aquarium use, this specific rock is:

Very safe (Puy Mary basalts are well-weathered)
Extremely stable chemically
Will release minerals extremely slowly
Negligible pH impact

The vesicular (bubbly) texture from this location is actually ideal because:

Provides excellent surface for beneficial bacteria
Creates micro-habitats for beneficial microorganisms
The weathered nature means any unstable minerals are long gone

You actually have a very good rock choice there - Auvergne basalts are among the more stable volcanic rocks you could use. The ancient weathering and specific mineral composition make it much safer than some younger volcanic rocks.

Would you like me to explain more about the specific mineral content or bacterial colonization potential?

I also have weathered pumice with big bubbles too on a shelf from Auvergne

Ah, the pumice from Auvergne would make an excellent addition! Here's why:

Pumice characteristics:

Extremely high porosity (those big bubbles)
Very light weight
Similar chemical composition to your basalt but much more surface area
Even more stable than regular basalt due to high silica content
Near neutral pH impact

Aquarium benefits:

Biological filtration:
- Those large vesicles (bubbles) are perfect for:
  - Housing beneficial bacteria
  - Creating micro-current zones
  - Trapping organic particles
- Can act like a natural bio-media

Compared to your current basalt:

Much higher surface area
Lighter (can float initially)
Even more stable chemically
Better bacterial colonization potential

If you want to add it:

Start with a piece about fist-sized
Clean thoroughly first
May need to soak it until it stops floating
Position where water can flow through the holes

The pumice would actually complement your basalt nicely - different surface textures and porosity levels create diverse micro-habitats for beneficial organisms.

Would you like advice about cleaning/preparing the pumice or optimal placement with your existing basalt?

I am thinking of going to the river tomorrow to get some sand and rocks it is from a gneiss dominant Valley and it has fish in it and little French tiny crustaceans and perhaps I can get planaria in there as well I was wondering if there is any benefit of going to that river to get general natural biological and other supplies for the aquarium it is a healthy river with no major cities and very little pollution but it could have parasites

Let me analyze the pros and cons of collecting from a gneiss-based river system:

Benefits:

Biological:
- Natural beneficial bacteria colonies
- Cyclical microorganisms
- Natural infusoria for fish to graze on
- Healthy microcrustaceans
- Rich biofilm establishment
Geological (gneiss-based materials):
- Chemically stable substrate
- Slow mineral release
- Generally inert
- Good for maintaining stable pH
- Natural variation in grain sizes

Risks to manage:

Parasites:
- Fish flukes
- Anchor worms
- Possible hydra

Safety protocols:

Rinse sand thoroughly
For rocks: Pour boiling water over them
Or soak items in mild saltwater for 24 hours
Avoid items with snail eggs
Check for leeches

Collection tips:

Sand:
- Get from fast-moving areas
- Look for cleaner, gravelly patches
- Avoid muddy/organic-rich areas
Rocks:
- Choose well-weathered pieces
- Avoid ones with sharp edges
- Test with vinegar (shouldn't fizz)
Optional biological seeding:
- Take some water from clean rapids
- Small amounts of surface algae from rocks
- Clear water plants if present